ANOTHER DAY, ANOTHER RUIN . . .

Non-stop activities since we Americans actually received our passports and caught up with the rest of the group at Crac de Chavelier in Syria . . . YAY! We actually arrived there about 10 minutes after the truck, having left Turkey at 2AM and traveling about fourteen hours straight in a riot of vehicular modes (private van from Goreme to Antakya, taxi from Antakya across the border to Aleppo, public bus from Aleppo to Homs, local shuttle from Homs to Crac).

It was all actually surprisingly easy given the skills of Dave the Driver, henceforth to be known as "Shagoman" for reasons that shall not be divulged here (and which did not involve me). He joins the cast of other superheroes on Daphne, which include "Shitty B" and "Sphincter Boy." (I think these names paint a vivid picture of things that preoccupy all of us as we sample the world's epicurean treats.)

We ended up missing Aleppo and Palmyra, which was a big bummer, but happy to have made it into the country at all. Will be giving an earful to a couple travel companies when I return stateside.

From Crac, it was on to Damascus and its souks, shishas (water pipes) and shady gay bars. (Alcohol is not that common outside of the Christian quarter.) Loved it. Also site of lengthy and disgruntled kitty paperwork session. Did not love it. Lost two more pax here, for a total of five down in two weeks. Not sure what that says about the group dynamics, but I could make a guess or two.

Tried to do a day trip to Lebanon with three other pax, but were unable to complete as they all had single-entry visas and border officials wouldn't allow them to purchase a new visa for re-entry. (Ironically, it WAS possible for me as my hard-won Syrian visa was a multiple entry.) Had a major "to do" with the guy who arranged the trip, who had GUARANTEED that he would refund all money if there were any issues and then tried to do the ol' "you pay for half" scheme. I pulled out full bitchery and money was returned in full, although not happily.

Toured the impressive Jerash ruins and took in the ultra-cheesy (and expensive) "Gladiator/Chariot" show. Camped at the Olive Branch resort, where I upgraded to a nice room in lieu of tent. Had a group showdown with a bunch of French tourists over who could use the outdoor cooking/patio area and lights. Shagoman won, after narrowly avoiding physical harm by one of "them."

Yesterday Daphne made the treacherously steep drive down to the Dead Sea, where we bobbed around like corks. It was crazy!!!! You really could basically sit up in the water. And skin felt so slick and oily after! Also interesting to see all the Muslim women swimming fully clother/veiled. Played around for about an hour, then hung by the fresh water pool smoking shishas before making the steep drive back up in the dark to Mt. Nebo, where we set up camp in a parking lot. Not much sleep had by any, as it was WINDY and noisy and lots of bad stomachs with no private places for bush squats. Up early for brief tour of Mt. Nebo, then on to Wadi Musa. We tour Petra tomorrow, Wadi Rum the day after, then into Egypt and St. Catherine's Monastery and Mount Sinai.

Off to the hammam now, then group dinner and movie ("Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade", which features Petra) . . .